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Let’s Get To The Bottom Of A Dirty Subject:

Good dirt/soil is the foundation of a healthy garden. In its simplest form, soil is the part of gardening most people don’t think much about. They take days/weeks to pick out just the right plant for a certain area but never think about the dirt that’s needed to make the plant grow healthy.

Starting to construct or rejuvenate a garden isn’t complicated. You just need to prepare your soil with a diverse source of organic matter – soluble nutrients that create the formation of rich soil humus.

Soil should be light, fluffy and crumbling. Remember, roots need to pass through the soil to contact accessible nutrients which are essential to healthy plant development. The optimum pH range for most plants is between 6.5 and 7.0 (neutral) however, many plants have adapted to thrive at pH values outside this range. Some plants (rhododendrons, holly, gardenias, blueberries, azaleas) prefer more strongly acidic soil which has a lower pH 5.5, while a few (clematis, heuchera, yarrow, ferns, asparagus) do best in soil that are neutral to slightly alkaline with a higher pH 7 or higher. Living in the Sandhills we have predominantly porous, sandy soils (thus Sandhills), which is not conducive for growing plants without supplements or compost.

Knowing the nutrient content and pH of your soil is the first step to creating a well balanced garden. You can get your soil tested through your local Cooperative Extension Office (These offices are staffed by experts who provide useful, functional, and research-based information to the community.) They will provide you with a wealth of knowledge on what applications your soil needs to provide you with a healthy garden. Soil Sample boxes are provide at the Extension Office – just *use a trowel, or shovel to get samples (dig to a depth of 4-6 inches), *remove any grass or debris, *take 4 to 5 samples from your garden area mix them thoroughly together, (if you have different areas of your garden to be tested make sure to take sample from each area and mark them in separate sample boxes ie: front garden, flower garden drive way, vegetable garden.) *let them dry out for 24 hours *take them to your Extension Office. They will provide you with a computerized list of what is needed for each area that you submitted. Lists could be different for various locations so pay close attention.

Composting is a way to improve soil structure allowing plenty of room for air, water and energy to move freely around your root system. It also neutralizes pH and improves the cation exchange capacity (CEC) of soils, increasing their ability to hold nutrients for plant use. Sandy soil may be lacking nutrients plants need to thrive while hard clay soil roots struggle to obtain nutrients need for healthy growth. Compost balances the soil when used in sufficient quantities adding long term positive impacts on soil structure (humus proteins). This decomposition process produces the best fertilizer you’ll need for your garden, including macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and micronutrients such as manganese, copper, iron and zinc. Compost contributes to improving the soil by increasing its biological diversity, improving water adhesion, reducing erosion and improving soil fertility with benefits of fewer pest problems in the garden. It’s referred to a “Garden Gold”!

We’ll cover – Starting a Compost Pile in our next Blog!

Remember even the richest soil will need to be revitalized annually.

Gardening Rake

BLOG Author: Gloria Polakof has been working as a Staff Instructor for Medical Offices & Social Media Expert with HMA for the past 25 years. She holds two Master Gardeners Certifications with North Carolina and California. Born in Amish Territory of Pa., farmering/gardening is in her blood.

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